Memphis

The city on the river, the centre of the cotton trade, the home of the Blues, Rock 'n Roll and Elvis... What could go wrong? I haven't really got to the bottom of it but something has; rather than feeling like the bustling and lively Chicago of the South the impression one has is of a dead or dying Southern version of Detroit (There are some photos in the right column). There is talk of rising crime levels and wealthy (white) migration to the suburbs but for a city with so much to offer the empty stores, apartments and office buildings seem an insult to the city's geography and history.

Arriving from Nashville you are left in no doubt that whereas that city is mainly white, Memphis is black. Beale Street offers cheap beer and live music to the tourists, Graceland is a sad and tasteless mausoleum...

But if you'd like to spend a few quiet moments at Elvis's graveside...

have a look at the film above.


Sun Record Studios is a breath of fresh air but one starts to really morn the city that has gone at the Stax Museum of American Soul Music

http://www.soulsvilleusa.com/

a marvellous place full of enthusiasm and heart as well as soul; the words of Steve Cropper (writer, producer and one of Booker T's MG's) stay with one... Talking of the assassination of Martin Luther King, Memphis 1968, he weeps as he remembers "Before that colour never walked through the door at Stax, that day everything changed". Memphis does feel cursed.